Where the Folk

A Welsh Folklore Road Trip

Author(s) Russ Williams

Language: English

Genre(s): Calon, Welsh Interest

  • September 2024 · 240 pages ·216x135mm

  • · Hardback - 9781915279705
  • · eBook - epub - 9781915279729
  • · eBook - pdf - 9781915279736

About The Book

Russ Williams was raised on Wales’s stories, like the one about a mountain that would send you mad or turn you into a gifted poet if you camped out on it, the one about the lost civilisation drowned by the sea and the one about the bottomless lake leading down to the Welsh Otherworld. Stories of witches and giants and heroic kings, dragons and mad doctors, ghostly women, giant beaver monsters, vampire furniture and pirate-fighting monks.

As entertaining as it is informative, Where the Folk follows Russ Williams as he travels in Griff, his creaky red Fiesta, in search of places associated with Wales’s legends, folklore and urban myths. In this joyful travelogue, not only does Russ recount some of Wales’s most interesting stories; he also explores the origins behind the myths, talking to experts and storytellers to find out how and why they might have come about, and what they tell us about Wales past and present.

Endorsements

‘Russ Williams’s nationwide search for some of Wales’s most enduring folkloric landmarks propels the reader on a colourful whirlwind tour through millennia of weird history and culture. From heartbroken saints and tree-bound skeletons to ghostly apes and the mischievous Mari Lwyd, here you’ll find a treasure trove of Welsh myth and legend waiting to be cracked open.’

Delyth Badder, folklorist and author of The Folklore of Wales: Ghosts

‘A thoroughly entertaining romp through Welsh places and stories. Russ Williams is a gifted storyteller with a real knack for bringing places and old legends to life.’ Claire Fayers, children’s writer and author of Welsh Giants, Ghost and Goblins

‘A personal road trip in search of the weirdness of Welsh mythology. Russ goes in search of not only the well-known tales of the tylwyth teg, the Lady of the Lake and the Welsh Atlantis, but also William Price the conjurer and chartist of Llantrisant, Clwb Ifor Bach and the vampire furniture of the Valleys.

Russ's stories are told in the context of the Welsh people who hear them for the first time and say “wtf”? If anyone has ever asked “Is that story true?” just read Russ’s book. It won't answer the question because it's the wrong question, but you'll understand why you asked it in the first place.

A delicious blend of academia and anarchy, Russ retells Welsh folk tales in our time through the life and humour of a 21st-century Caernarfon boy.’

Peter Stevenson, storyteller and author of Illustrated Welsh Folk Tales for Young and Old

Contents

Preface

Acknowledgements

Introduction: ‘Stori Nain!’

Call to Adventure: The Bustling Southeast

Where the folk’s the party at?

My quest begins in the Welsh capital with the story of Ifor Bach and his links to Cardiff’s nightlife.

Where the folk can I find a hungover ghost?

Garth Hill, or ‘Mountain’, for the one about the drunken invisible man.

Where the folk can I hear the scream of a banshee?

Concerning the ghostly femme fatales of Caerphilly.

Where the folk can I travel back in time to catch witches, fairies and ghosts?

Llancaiach Fawr Manor; a haunted living museum where the previous occupants would do anything to protect their home from the supernatural.

Where the folk can I find a genuine fairy-tale castle?

Pennard Castle on the Gower Peninsula, which a band of Tylwyth Teg is rumoured to have buried in sand one night after they weren’t invited to a party.

Where the folk is the propa’ Lady of the Lake, ’en?

Stories of otherworldly Lake Women from the Rhondda Valley and beyond, along with a trip to Llanwonno to visit the grave of the legendary runner Guto Nyth Brân.

Where the folk can I get vampire furniture from?

Following the trail of vampire-possessed furniture to Llanmaes, in the Vale of Glamorgan.

Where the folk did the ‘Mad Doctor’ go to burn the baby Welsh messiah?

Llantrisant, for some good-old fashioned ghost stories, the origins of the ‘V-sign’ and the life and times of the eccentric Dr William Price.

Who the folk dances with Mari?

Meeting the modern ‘folkies’ who keep the tradition of the Mari Lwyd alive at Llantrisant.

Where the folk can I find a good, old-fashioned hero?

Caerleon, for the epic tale of How Culhwch won Olwen and how it fits in with Joseph Campbell’s seventeen stages of the ‘Hero’s Journey’.

Where the folk did King Arthur, his sleeping army and the giant caveman go?

Monmouth or Neath: which hides King Arthur’s final resting place, and what are the legendary king’s links to Wales, exactly?

Where the folk did all the Welsh gods go?

Concerning Nant Teyrnon’s links to the First Branch of the Mabinogi.

Crossing the Threshold: The Western Coasts

Where the folk did everyone go?

Sophie and I begin our western road trip in Narberth, which has links to the First and Third Branches of the Mabinogi.

Where the folk can I find a beautiful princess and the ghost of a killer ape?

Carew Castle: Bat and Ghoul Hotel.

Where the folk can I find King Arthur’s grave, a band of militant dancing fairies and a retired giant-beaver-monster-thingy?

Touring some of the many burial mounds of Pembrokeshire.

Where the folk is the only patron saint in the village?

St Davids, for the story of the patron saint of Wales.

Where the folk can I find a pirate-fighting monk?

An ex Arthurian knight is forced out of retirement Steven Seagal-style when pirates attack his little chapel in the cliffs.

Where the folk can I find a talking seal and an angry Welsh lady?

Catching a talking seal’s ferry service to Fishguard, where Jemima Nicholas helped fend off an invading French army.

Where the folk is the ‘Welsh Atlantis’?

On the lookout for the drowned kingdom of Cantre’r Gwaelod.

Where the folk has the most extortionate toll charge ever?

Devil’s Bridge, where the toll is the soul of the first living thing to cross over to the other side.

Freedom to Live: The Rugged North

Where the folk did the flower-faced girl go?

Dad takes over from Sophie as my companion as I head north into my home county of Gwynedd. Our first stops are Llech Ronw and Tomen-y-Mur, for a look at the Fourth Branch of the Mabinogi.

Where the folk can I find a genuine Celtic rainforest?

Parking up at Maentwrog, where Saint Twrog faced off against a she-devil and her cult, for a walk through Coed Felenrhyd, site of an epic battle between an evil sorcerer and a pig-farming prince.

Where the folk can I listen to talking starlings and a Welsh banger?

Exploring Harlech Castle’s links to the Second Branch of the Mabinogi.

Where the folk do skeleton brides, disgraced kings and Nazi spies go to hide?

Nant Gwrtheyrn and Yr Eifl, for the tragic tale of doomed lovers Rhys and Meinir.

Where the folk did the ancient oak, the royal court and the floating island all go?

Man-made lakes and rising sea levels threaten the mystical landmarks of Dinas Dinlle and Dyffryn Nantlle.

Where the folk can I find space rock and a martyred mongoose?

We all know this one; the story of the famous four-legged martyr of Beddgelert.

Where the folk did the Welsh get their flag from?

Wasn’t it something to do with the red dragon beating the white dragon, or something like that?

Where the folk can I find a relocated giant-beaver-monster-thingy?

Following the Afanc’s trail from Pwll Llygad yr Ych to Llyn-yr-Afanc.

Where the folk is the highest story in Wales?

Tales from Cadair Idris and Yr Wyddfa, Wales’s highest and busiest mountains.

Where the folk is the girl of my dreams, cont?

Following Macsen Wledig’s footsteps to my hometown of Caernarfon.

Where the folk is the ‘Welsh Valentine’s Day’ from?

Sophie and I go on a double date to Ynys Llanddwyn, home of Santes Dwynwen, the Welsh patron saint of love.

Where the folk did the cow jump over the burial mound?

My story ends at Bedd Branwen on Anglesey.

References

Bibliography

About the Author

About the Author(s)

Author(s): Russ Williams

Russ Williams grew up in Caernarfon in North Wales and now lives in Cardiff. He runs two blogs, ‘Brawd Autistico’, which documents his life with an autistic brother, and ‘Where the Folk’, about Welsh folklore and urban myths.

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